Culinary solidarity
Kindlifresserbrunnen, Bern: 16th century communal eating
Even though Switzerland is so substantially individualistic nowadays, it seems like communal eating is still quite common. The Fondue and the Raclette – effectively very unsophisticated melted cheese dishes – are the best known exemplars. But it’s fascinating to see how this truly nice tradition of shared meals is still prevalent in a country that doesn’t even have one main language, but instead – four of them. And there are also “rules” to follow (the first being – don’t drink water when eating Fondue).
The multicultural character of Switzerland is very evident in its bigger cities where one can find restaurants from nearly every corner of the world. At the same time, even if it was just a coincidence, in Geneva I happened to be sharing a tapas-like Indian dinner as well as an Eritrean Zigni for lunch. And when I was spoiling myself with some descent breakfast, by myself, I noticed that the communal table in the center of the posh Boulangerie (yet another Lonely Planet recommendation) is essentially an equal part of the place’s concept. Retro or not, it is the website of the Russian branch which truly elaborates on the idea.
Nevertheless, back to traditional Swiss cuisines, it would be just too easy to attribute both their simplicity (melted cheese with pieces of dried bread or boiled potatoes) and the social eating to either wartime or harsh winters. In fact, one Swiss I met even speculated that the local watch-fetish originates from wintertime boredom.
Indeed, the Swiss history has recorded far more freezing weathers than armed conflicts, but it seems that the Swiss collective notion of eating also goes the other way. It was just last week that the residents of the Geneva canton, and only them, were marking the Jeune Genevois. This annual fast day dates back to the 16th century and apparently originates from a public expression of solidarity with the Protestants in Lyon at the times of persecution.
But, frankly, even if these cheese delicacies are indeed tasty (and very filling, I should add), the social aspect is excelling over their nutritious contribution. Actually, maybe the fasting is supposed to balance it out.
